15 Jan, 2013

It is Tuesday morning 01:00. I have just woken up. We set the alarms for two last night, but I cannot sleep anymore. Rina is also awake. We decided to pack the last bit of stuff into the bakkie. We had a shower and I had some coffee to wake up properly. By ten minutes past two, we started up the engine and departed.

There was lots of roadwork on the Polokwane highway from Maubane to Rust De Winter. I was glad we were so early. It would have been bad with traffic and only one lane open for traffic.

The sky started to light up by 05:00, just as we pulled into the sprawling town of Mokopane. It was quite hard to find a cup of coffee, as the Wimpy only opens at 07:00 and the filling stations did not have any. We eventually got some fuel at the last Engen garage. Rina had no such luck with her hot chocolate.

The sun never got out from under the thick, dark cumulous clouds. We drove off to Grobler’s Bridge and Martin’s Drift to cross the border.  We had coffee and hot chocolate at the Fig Tree Inn.  A pretty faced blonde girl with a nice little baby blue blouse, served us, the one side of the blouse was shoulder less. I still want to know whether that is not uncomfortable. I think the Roman men wore similar frocks.  I complimented her on her blouse. She said:”thank you oom”. I was glad I did not compliment her on her looks. We wanted to change some money there, but the guy was still waiting for his Pulas to arrive from Johannesburg. I managed to change some rand to pula at a not so great rate at a little exchange just before the border. At Grobler’s Bridge on the South African side it went very fast, took a little longer on the Botswana side, merely because the queue was slightly longer. They charged us an arm and a leg to enter Botswana. P 160 for road tax etc.

A very “high or drunk” Customs official waved us into Botswana.  His eyes very red and he had scars on his face that told a story of bar fights and drunken scuffles over women. We drove off, zig-zagging all over the road, trying to not fall into one of the numerous, huge potholes.

A hundred and fifteen kilometres later, we arrived in Palapye. We drove through what I thought was going to be a village, but was in fact a sprawling town, following the signs to our first stop, Camp Itumela. Nice camp, interesting pub and restaurant. They had a quaint kitchen and ablutions. Open air toilets and showers. It was very nice.

We met an American who cycled all the way from Capetown. He was stranded, waiting for spares for his cycle. I went back into town in order to change another $500 into pula, just in case the garages do not take my garage or credit card.

It is 14:30 now. We have set up camp, but have not checked in yet. They only open at 15:00. So, I hope we do not have to move. I think it is time for a cold beer. We’ll have to take it easy and slow. The prices of alcohol are ridiculous here.

We checked in at 15:00. A very strange, very camp young guy with very long hair checked us in. I asked him if he does the reception work. He told us that he was the entertainment. The black guy who is the manager, just smiles and laughs. Back at camp a mother hen and her nine very fluffy chicks greeted us. The little ones all look like Christmas decorations. When we went into the shower, the ducks came out. It seems as though they like lying on the wet, cold shower floor. It keeps them cool. There are ducks, chickens and turkeys everywhere. A sign on a tree had a picture of a bird which read. You must feed us, we eat anything. We went to look at the pool. There were ducks in the pool. Mopani worms too! There are Mopani worms everywhere. Dead ones. The birds obviously do not eat Mopani worms.

                                                                                    

We asked whether the dinner buffet caters for vegetarians as well. The confirmed, stating that they have Mopani worms too. I said no thanks. They told me that it tasted like chicken, apparently very salty. I told him that we do not do salt. Since when are worms vegetarian food?

We went for a swim in the pool without the Mopani worms.  The water was lovely and warm but refreshing.

Palapye reminds me of Port St Johns, Hogsback or Coffeebay. There is a very laid back seventies hippie air about it.

I lit a little fire for us. I decided to do it in the cob, seeing that it looked as though it was about to rain. It was a wise decision. We cooked the food right in front of our tent, while we were lying inside the tent. It was drizzling constantly. We had our chicken salad with jacket potato. It has been eighteen hours since we woke up this morning. We passed out. We woke at eleven, tent still open, mozzies buzzing about our heads, waiting for the Tabbard to wear off so that they can come and feed. The car was also standing open, money and cameras still on the front seat. The Queen of the Night’s flowers also opened up during the evening while we were asleep. We closed and locked up everything and went back to sleep.

16 Jan, Wednesday

We struggled to get out of bed this morning. Still tired. We woke up a few times during the night. We are very close to the railway station. The trains hooted quite a few times during the night. It is nice to wake with the sound of Kingfishers and Cuckoos. We want to go to the Moremi gorge today!

It is still raining, drizzling and dripping. I got out of the tent, nearly stepped on a chicken. While Rina got ready, I quickly fixed us a salad for lunch. On the way to Moremi, I realized that I forgot to fill up the car, turn around, fill the car. Guy at the station says: ”You know we don’t swipe”. He was referring to the garage or petrocards. A bit late telling me that now! No problem, I changed a lot of money to Pula, just in case.

Nearly took a wrong turn in Moremi village. The last few kilos to Moremi gorge was on a very wet , very muddy road. We came across a young woman in a 4x4. We asked whether we were on the right road and also asked whether we’ll get there in a 4x2. She looked doubtful. She was on her way to Palapye, but offered to turn around and follow us in case we get stuck. A close call, twice, but we made it. At one stage the vehicle was driving sideways like a crab.

At the gate to the lodge and reserve we paid P 142 and met our guide DC.  Another few kilometres on a slightly better muddy track and we arrived at the parking area. We drove past the very nice camping grounds, each site with its own ablutions, past the brand new chalets overlooking the gorge. From here we set forth on foot. DC noticed that I left the lights of the car on. Thank goodness!

I already had a flat battery on the first day of the year.

There are lots of high cliffs, fresh streams, boulder hopping. We came across a huge boulder. It was called Sir Seretse Khama’s alarm rock.  The boulders all fell down on the day he passed away. I was holding thumbs that the present president does not pass away right now. There were still many boulders that can fall. It was a very pleasant hike, in places very slippery and difficult with all the binoculars, cameras and us once again not wearing the right shoes.  At the last waterfall, we scanned the cliffs for the vultures that breed there, but the sky was totally overcast and the vultures were hiding or sleeping or doing what vultures do on days like these. We trekked back to where we left the car. After dropping DC off and signing the visitors’ book we took a deep breath and ventured back onto the muddy road. After a few kilometres we got stuck, even with the diff lock on. I tried to reverse and go forward until we could become unstuck. Rina decided to give me a push. It worked. Eventually we were out of the mud. She is a good pusher.

Rina is no longer white. She is so muddy, she looks like those gingerbread men they hang on the Christmas trees in Germany!

After we arrived back at Camp Itumela, we had a lovely hot shower in our open-air shower. Rain and shower at the same time. Interesting! We had our salad I made this morning.

Just woke Rina from her post lunch snooze. The drizzle has stopped. The sun is trying to come out. Towels outside again, maybe they’ll dry.

Off to make our dinner booking. Not making food tonight, as we are leaving early in the direction of Francistown in the morning.

It is P18 for a local beer and P85 per person for the meal. Expensive. We are on holiday. There is no meal allowance. I made our booking, he flashes his eyelids, smiles, pulls his fingers through his hair and does a little thing with his hips and then says toodle doo!  Serious! He’s been out here for too long.

It is raining again. We met a retired couple from Rustenburg. They were on their way back from Maun. They were visiting their son. We had a nice chat over dinner. So, all they served were steaks, chips, pumpkin with coleslaw and rice salad. So much for the vegetarian part. For desert there was ice cream with a yogurt fridge tart.

17 January.

It rained very hard during the night. We broke down camp. We did not even pack the tent away. It was too wet. We left for Francistown, drove via little villages, Serule and.... Crossed the Shashe , Tati and many other rivers. We filled up at Francistown. They swipe!  I bought a Lucky Dube cd from a guy with three teeth, they were nicely spaced about 5 mm apart. His skin was dark and dry from many years in the sun. He claims to have a sick child. He thanked me for my support. At Crossroads there was a kiosk. There were chickens everywhere. How do they know whose is whose? We just had our sandwich, which Rina made while we were sitting in the car. We finished our last Guarana. 

We crossed the Motsetsi river. The rivers are all in full force. We are 81 km from Nata. No way am I going to drive another 340 km. We’ll stay over at Nata lodge. A few kilos out of Nata, the Seowane river decided to change its course, down the road. I have never seen so much water. For kilometers, there was no difference between the road and the river. It looked as though we were driving in an ocean. A cop car was leading; every now and then he would stop, get out of his vehicle, with shoes and socks in his uniform pants and get into nearly knee deep water, to remove logs and stumps that washed into the road.

We finally arrived at Nata lodge. It was an oasis. I first went to check out the campsites to see whether it would be possible to camp, seeing that every where it looks like vast pans. We found a dry spot and set up camp. We wanted to book a tour to the Makgadigadi pans, but they said that it was not possible to get there  even with a 4x4, due to thick mud.

We made little vegetable parcels and cooked it on the fire with jacket potato. Somewhere close we heard a Barn owl. No other night sounds. 

18 Jan, Friday

We left Nata early. We filled up the tank in Nata village. There was a Wimpy. We bought coffee and hot chocolate and we each had a toasted cheese and tomato on brown bread.

Just outside Nata, we came across an elephant bull. It was very strange sight; we are not even in a reserve. Later we saw many more elephants. As we entered the small village of Patamatenga, we slowed down for the speed limit, but still got pulled over by a friendly cop. We did 97 in an 80 zone. P420 (R520) I was not impressed. It was not even a village, looked like two houses and a shack. We drove off very slowly. Just before reaching Kazangulo, big, fat, black beetles bombarded our car, diving and flying into the windscreen like Kamikaze pilots. We filled up once again in Kazangulu. We wanted to cross the border into Namibia tonight, but in Kasane, we decided to stay over. We got a camping sight on the Zambezi River. We were met by a group of ten banded Mongoose, two warthogs with four babies, lots of Vervet monkeys and a few Water Monitors. A Heuglin’s Robin serenaded us, saying welcome. 

There are many signposts warning us of hippos and crocodile. No warnings of mosquitoes. There are many. R60 for a Tabbard. It is either go to the bank for a loan or die of Malaria. The rain has stopped for a while. We are experiencing a beautiful sunset over the Zambezi river.

We just booked a daytrip to Victoria Falls for tomorrow!  Sitting here, listening to the Fish Eagles and looking at the squirrels. One of the Warthog families came to visit. They were sniffing around in search of food.

We made ostrich, pap and sheba with beans in tomato sauce. It is raining, which help chasing the mosquitoes away. There are millions of mosquitoes. We set out all these little citronella scented candles to help banish them. Somehow I put the one too close to the cob. I went to wash some stuff and when I got back Rina was in a state. The cob caught fire, she threw water on it and not much damage was done. Just a chunk burnt out of it in the bottom.

Later before I put on the grid to braai the meat, I sprayed it with Spray and Cook, without thinking, aerosol into the burning coals. I nearly caused another fire!

19 Jan, Saturday

We woke up at six to shower and get ready for our trip to the Victoria Falls. We had an easy crossing into  Zimbabwe.  We crossed the border at Kazangulo. Ther were lots of brand new trucks at the borderpost  coming from the UK. Destination Zim. I thought there were sanctions.   All the flags are half mast . Apparently the deputy president passed away. Pres. Moyi. After an hour, driving through Victoria fall national park we arrived in the pretty little town of Victoria Falls. It was raining very hard; we put on our raincoats and started our walk.

Mosiotunya, the water that thunders was majestic, thousands of tons of water gushing over the edge into the deep gorge below. The spray was vicious, the gushes of wind helped getting us wetter and wetter and even with the raincoats, we were all soaking wet. Not nice walking around with wet shoes. It was warm, so the only real problem was wet shoes and trying to take photos in the rain. We took the all inclusive tour with a guide and lunch and even though we really enjoyed ourselves, we thought it was a rip- off. Do it yourself is a way better option. We had lunch at the Ilala lodge.  Afterwards we walked around and explored Victoriafalls town. A guy wanted our rucksacks in return for some souvenirs. There were 5 items on the menu to choose from, with desert. Not even a side salad or starter. After lunch we explored the town, the camping grounds, shops, other hotels and the railway station. At three our driver picked us up to take us back to Kasane in Botswana. We are going to have ricotta and spinach pasta tonight.

Four very rowdy, very loud young guys just arrived in a Zambia registered  4x4. While everyone is listening to trumpeter hornbills and fish eagles, they put on their loud absolutely crappy music. I cannot exactly place the accent, but I think they come from The Republic of Retardia.  We are at sight number 13. They reckon they bought sight number 13. To our dismay, they just moved in next door to us.

They are still very noisy, but the music stopped. The security guard must have told them to switch off. Time to go and watch the sunset, light the citronella lamps and start dinner.

We went to watch the sun set over the Zambezi one more time before we depart in the morning for Katima Mulilo.

20 Jan, Sunday

We crossed the border into Namibia at the Ngoma bridge borderpost. We crossed the Chobe river. At the Katima Mulilo police checkpoint, they checked the vehicle for drugs and ivory. We wanted to stay over at the Zambezi river lodge. We wanted to have a drink at the only floating bar in Africa. Alas, it no longer existed. It was sold. The camping area was also overgrown with long grass, which made me think that it might be a good hiding place for mozzies.  We were dissapointed , as it was run by Protea hotels. We drove through Chobe game reserve en route to Kongola. We wanted to stay over at Burning Hill lodge in Bwabwata National Park, but it has closed down due to a massive fire. Everything is burnt down; on the opposite side of the road was a turn off for a 4x4 resort. It was also closed off, destroyed by the same fire.  We found a place to stay at the Mazambala Island Lodge.  They had a camping place without electricity overlooking the Kwando River. There were lots of flies around. Better than mosquitoes, though.

A big thunderstorm is brewing in the west. Continuous roaring and thundering like a steam locomotive rushing towards its destination.

A Jacana is wandering around on the lily leaves.

The two German couples who accompanied us to Victoria Falls just arrived. They were also dismayed that the place they were suppose to camp burnt down.  We made Fry’s vegan hot dogs with tomato sauce and German mustard for lunch.

I think I should switch off the fridge at 16:00 to conserve the battery. Rina and I played a game of scrabble. Time for sundowners and to watch the sun set over the Kwando.   The thunderstorm dissappeared into nothingness.  I made a small fire for toasted tomato, cheese and onion sandwiches.  This was our first day without rain. The caretaker is putting some logs into the donkie to warm up our hot water. Time for a nice shower.

After our shower we sat outside for a while, well sprayed with Tabbard. We were treated to a light show by hunreds of fireflies. What an amazing sight.

21 Jan, Monday

We broke up our camp this morning in a mere 50 minutes. Waited for our receipt and waved good bye to the Germans. At one of the picnic spots along the way we had some of the nice Lifestyle raison bread we bought at Katima with some of our German herb pate. There was so much litter, this is in a National park as well. On the coke cans lying around, the slogan “A billion reasons to believe in Africa” was printed. Quite ironic.

We arrived at Popa falls. It is not really falls, but rather rapids. The water level of the river is also very high. If it rises even more, you would not even notice the rapids. They tell you that there are crocodiles and hippos in the river and warn you that you enter the river at your own risk. They also warn you not to feed the children through the fence or to buy firewood through the fence. We filled up at Divundu.

Vast areas have been deforested, or the bush cleared. All their cooking and heating is done by wood. This is definitely not sustainable.  In ten years there won’t be any trees standing.

We arrived at our campsite at Kaisosi Lodge. We set up camp under a huge  velvet leaved tree, I think it is an Appleleaf tree. It is a beautiful place. Each stand has its own ablution. We look out over the Kavango River and watch the cows on the Angolan side coming to drink.

It is late afternoon. We are sitting on the wooden deck overlooking the Kavango, sipping ice cold gin & tonics. Waterbirds are flying in to roost in the branches of the dead trees.  Peace and quiet.

We were going to cook, but I did not feel like unpacking all the stuff, so we are going to have dinner at the restaurant.

At dinner we had some Tafel Lagers. Rina had garlic snails for a starter, I had battered calamari rings, six of them. We both had grilled chicken  with vegetables. I had a jacket potato with mine, Rina had chips. The portion of chips was bigger than my little potato. They used frozen  vegetables. It is understandable though. There is not much fresh veggies in the stores. Everything has to be transported vast distances. I do not know why they do not plant some vegetables where they cut down all the trees. Maybe they want to create a beautiful desert. It is being turned into a vast wasteland.

Sometime during the night I woke up.  A horse snorted right outside the tent. It was quite loud in the quiet hours of the morning.

22Jan

We saw some White rumped Babblers this morning. Great! It is a new specie for us. We decided to spend an extra night here, to rest a bit. All the driving is tiring. We went to check our bank balance on the internet in the lounge area. We do not have to go home yet. We also went to town to buy some things to eat and drink. Katima  Mulilo was such a lovely little frontier type town with lots of friendly people. Here in Rundu though, is a feeling of bitterness and hatred. As though they think the bush war is still on. They look at me as though I am Jonas Savimbi.

We spent most of the day relaxing in camp. We played some games and made a large salad for lunch.  We cooled down in the pool. We had G&T’s on the deck at the bar and washed some clothes and organized the route for tomorrow.  We were running after an elusive Swamp Boubou. We heard him and saw them flying off, without having a good look. So, I suppose it is not a tick! Hope we can spot it somewhere along the way. Tonight I am only going to make some toasted sandwiches on the coals with some salads.

23 Jan

Wow! We did a lot of driving today! 742Km We drove all the way from Rundu to Ruacana.

This morning when we tried to pay, ABSA was giving so much hassles. It took us an hour and twenty minutes for the transaction to go through. We had coffee with  condensed milk and fudge rusks with it. (Rina’s choice).We eventually left at about nine in the morning. Just out of town we came across a dead Caracal, the victim of a hit and run! Three Yellow-billed Kites were feeding on it. We arrived at Eenana, expecting nothing. It was basically a military base in the early eighties. Even according my 2001 map of Namibia, it is not even suppose to have a filling station, there was more than one. I chose the one that only takes cash. I told them I would go and draw money, but they did not want me to leave without paying first. I left Rina there as a security/insurance/collateral. I tried to draw money at the Bank of Windhoek.  I could not operate the weird machine. Whatever I typed, it wanted to give N$ 11111, 11c. Eventually the security guard helped me.  Some weird characters kept staring at our car and talking about us. You cannot go anywhere with Gauteng number plates.

I have a 92L petrol tank, it is a thousand bucks to fill up, and you fill up twice a day sometimes. Many little places do not take credit cards and who can afford to pull a wheelbarrow of notes behind their vehicle?

Along the way we had a picnic, consisting of Russian salad and some pate with bread. Rina spotted a Ground Hornbill for us.

We wanted to stay over in Ondangwa or Oshakati, but there was no suitable accommodation. In Oshakati we each had a small portion of Hake and chips at “Fish and Chips Co.”

We were chasing the sun! You cannot drive at night. The amount of feral animals was only surpassed by the number of feral children.  The last bit of the way was also full of potholes. The place where Rina wanted to stay was still another 61km from Ruacana. I did not feel like pitching in the dark. It would have meant that we first had to stop at the gas station as well and the sun was racing towards the Atlantic.

We finally settled in. We are staying at the camping grounds of the Ruacana Ehalodge. Eha means “home” It also refers to a piece of jewellery a woman wears. Like many places here in the north it seems as though everything needs renovating. Most of these places make all their money of Dec or in JULY/ August.  The rest of the time it seems to be very low season.

Going to the Ruacana falls tomorrow. We might only have a salad again tonight. Rina is very hot. I am so worried about Malaria. We’ll see what she is like in the morning. But I am not taking chances. My daughter sent a sms. She is also undergoing treatment and having x rays and blood tests done.

Maybe a cold shower will help for us now!

Jan, 24^th Thursday

We made a nice omelette for breakfast. I also had some All Bran.  We drove to the falls. It is situated between the South African and Angolan border posts. Unfortunately there is insufficient water for the falls. So for the moment it might as well be called the Ruacana cliffs. There is a huge hydro electric PowerStation here and the dam is on the Angolan side.

Rina was under attack while we were driving, this time bees! I knew something was wrong when she started screaming and opened the car door while we were driving at high speed. I knew for a fact that she does not have Tourette syndrome, so by the time I managed to stop the car, she was already out and out of her t-shirt. Only two sting marks, but she said that it burnt like hell.

The drive to Epupa up to the Kunene river lodge is a nightmare, so we decided to stay over, seeing that half the day was gone already got a Déjà vu feeling when I saw thick sand, mud etc. Then I thought of our dwindling fluid supplies and decided to continue our journey to Epupa falls in the morning. Roelien at reception told us not to worry, the worst part of the road was over and that the rest was on a good gravel road.

We set up camp and were greeted by Barefaced Babblers and Long-tailed Starlings. This is such a nice and cosy place. The bathrooms are so beautiful. Only problem is, that seeing it is low season, they decide to do some renovations. So the pool was empty and is only getting filled up now. At the deck overlooking the river we had a cold Tafel each and we did a quick bbm and facebook update.  Rina and I both thought it would be a perfect night for a braai with some pap again.

25 Jan

We woke up early and had a nice shower after breaking up camp. We then started the arduous trek to Epupa falls. We went to look at two different camp sites, but neither appealed to us for various reasons. We eventually settled for Omarunga lodge, also on the Kunene.  We chose sight number one, fortunately! They do not have electrical plugs at the camp sites. Nadine at reception was kind enough to help us out and let us use a plug inside their kitchen.

We are out of fresh produce and cold drinks and alcohol. We went to the general dealer. They had nothing for us. We went to the shebeen, bought some big bottles of beer.  It was very hot, even at four in the afternoon; the sun still tortured us on our walk to the falls. The falls are beautiful at this time of year.  There is a lot of water.  We looked at some of the Himba trinkets they are selling and when we got back to camp, we had an ice cold Tafel lager again. We went to have a swim to cool down, but the water was so warm, you can actually spend eternity in there. We called the waiter to bring us gin and tonics. A lady came over and asked whether we have some washing for her to do. We did not have much, but I thought she needed the extra money. She charged us $N60. It saved us from a time consuming job.

We were warned that at around 17:00 the wind starts blowing and that branches and the huge seeds from the Makalali palms usually blow down and fall in the heavy winds and that they can cause injury. Well it started at five, sounding as though we are under attack. Nothing hit our heads yet. The wind causes a lot of spray from the falls. Every now and then it drizzles on us at camp. Apparently the wind stops again when it gets dark. It is dusk, the sun is setting behind the mountains, but the wind is still blowing. Hope it stops soon, because we want to start dinner. Not a fire or gas can work in this wind. We can use our tent to do para-gliding.

If the wind stops we are going to make fish with pasta.

The wind never stopped. We turned our table on its side, with ammo boxes on the other side to protect the gas bottle’s flame. It worked and we eventually had a great dinner.

26 Jan

There are no stores here, just a little general dealer that sells basics, like mielie meal, atchar, Thai chilli sauce, chakalaka and pilchards. We also went to the shibeen to get some beers. I have never seen such high counters. It made me feel like a pre-school midget. When I got back to the car, Rina told me about the girls on the veranda who felt and compared each other’s boobs. I was sorry I missed that.Rina’s wedding anniversary ring broke, the gold just split. She is feeling so sad, but we’ll have it fixed when we get home. Maybe our fingers are getting too thick from the weight gain.

A couple arrived in a massive truck, converted into a camper. They know all the locals. It turns out the woman used to be the manager of one of the lodges. They even have two scramblers motor bikes on their truck.

We saw Golden Weavers today. It was a new tick for us.

Two days later and Rina’s beestings look as though they might become rhino horns. It was also very itchy.

We had our water bottles filled up with fresh fountain water at R2 per litter at the lodge. It tastes just like the water from the river. We spent most of the day chilling by the pool and drinking gin and tonics. A group of American girls with squeaky voices, like tiny mice whose balls are caught in a rattrap, turned up.  The Afrikaans guys are all displaying like turkeys on heat. They girls apparently came here to teach the Himba children at a little local school.

It is 17:00. The wind started blowing again. No problem. We are eating at the restaurant tonight.

Butternut soup, chicken, rice, squash and broccoli, with pancakes stuffed with peaches for desert.

We packed almost everything tonight. We are going on a Himba village tour in the morning and thereafter we are driving to Kamanjab.

27 Jan

As the sun peeked over the eastern horizon, we observed the most beautiful moon setting over the mountains, right above the falls.

Further up the river at Ruacana they closed the sluice gates of the dam. The water level in the river dropped significantly.  I think you would be able to walk across the rocks at the top of the falls into Angola.

We were picked up at eight this morning for our Himba village tour. It was very interesting.

The women never, ever bath. The burn these herbs and leaves that give off this nice scent that they use as perfume. Himba women are famous for covering their body and hair with a paste made of butter, ochre (hematite powder) and ashes, called otjize, which is supposed to protect them from the sun and the insects. The red complexion it gives to women’s skin, is considered a sign of beauty. Body decoration is important in Himba culture, especially for women. They wear jewelry made of shell, metal, bone or skin. Women usually go topless (as well as men) and wear a skirt made of goat skin. Adult women also wear heavy iron or copper necklaces, that can weigh several kilos, and beaded anklets to protect their legs from venomous animal bites. Himba dress codes and hairstyle rules are very complex. Himba hairstyles are really meaningful as they enable to identify their social status. Pre-pubescent girls wear 2 plaits in front of their faces. Replacing them with many strands hanging all over the head, means the girl is in her puberty period. A girl with long tied back braids is considered ready for marriage. Once married, an « erembe » (a piece of goat leather) is tied to the top of her head. Hairstyle also indicates the status of men. Single men are recognizable by the single plait on the back of their head (called an « ondatu ») with the rest of the head being shaved. Men having 2 plaits are suitable for marriage. When a man has a turban style hairdo it means he is married. If a kid has a single plait in front of his face, it means he is a twin.

They basically live on pap, milk and eggs, with occasional meat. No veg grows in the hard dry soil. Closer to towns, they sell a goat to buy some other foodstuff.  They use camphor wood and Mopani root to light fires. The graves get  a horn from cow they slaughter, males face up, female down , more than one cow, horn when rich.,

Children get no inheritance, brother gets all. Use to bury in seated position.

After we left, we picked up little kids to take them to school; it is about 20 km away, so they walk the whole Sunday to be there on Monday. We filled every nook and cranny of the bakkie with bare butt kiddies. When they all started screaming we knew this was where they had to get off. One on Rina’s lap looked as though she was about to cry, she clinged onto Rina for life. Maybe it was her first time in a car. She never spoke a word.

We filled up at Opuwo, all stores closed, Sunday, ate at Kavango restaurant

We arrived after five in Kamanjab. We decided to stay over at Oppikoppi lodge only for one night, so we decided to get a chalet... Went for a dip in the pool, more beers, Baby ostrich nearly swallowed everything on the table, was very interested in cell phones, lighters and anything green, like a towel and sarong. It even grabbed a little cactus in a pot. She was banished from the pool area after that

We had a very unhealthy meal. Everything was fried or had butter added to it.

Back in our little room, Rina rearranged all the furniture. Put the laptop on the bedside table. The wine and Bible had to share a space. I put the wine on the floor, because it did not look right, seeing that it wasn’t nagmaal wine.

It is very hot. We put on the fan and opened the door. The fan cools down the room a bit and blows the incoming insects back out the door.  I think Rina fell asleep. It must have been Maria Callas’s soothing voice singing the Queen of the night aria or the beer in combination with a whole day on the road.

28 Jan

W e had a nice breakfast at Oppikoppi lodge. It was included in the accommodation.  We said good-bye to the baby ostriches and left for Otjo. We eventually got some fresh salad and fruit and vegetables. Only the very basics though.  We arrived nice and early at Tocharian Lodge quite early and went for a nice swim after we had pitched the tent. There are so many moths, mosquitoes and flies. You do not know when to slap or when to blow! We are spending more money on Tabard than beer and petrol!

What a slippery pool! We are the only people here. Decided to stay two nights, this way we can see more of Etosha. It is terribly expensive to stay in Etosha.  We managed to get some food cooked without making an insect stew or getting sucked dry by the mosquitoes. I envisioned us, waking up, looking like 2000 year old dried up mummies! We also made some salad for tomorrow!

29 Jan

We woke up early and headed for Etosha. We entered at Okoukuiyo and then took the road to the Ghost forest or  Sprokieswoud. We took some photos of the  Spekbome, also known as "Portulacaria Afra" or Elephant Food. Then  we went on to Grunenwald. On the way we had a spectacular sighting of a Springbok ewe giving birth. Something went wrong though. Her water broke; a head and a leg appeared. She started lapping up the water and some of the placenta. The baby though never came out all the way. She went to lie down, got up again and walked around, half the baby sticking out. We waited for more than an hour. Eventually she went into the bush, half the baby still protruding.

We saw a lot of Black Crows and Adam’s Stork at Gemsbokvlakte. We saw giraffe and three Hyenas at Olifantsbad. The Hyenas made all the gazelle very skittish. At Aus there were quite a few water birds as well as a Tawny Eagle and a Wahlberg’s Eagle.

Back at camp we went for a swim, had a few beers at the bar and updated our facebooks. We settled our bill and went for a lovely swim.

Tonight we are only having salads again, because there are too many goggas to contend with. I should have chosen sight number one. There is less grass and more sun. The mozzies and flies and moths love the grass and the shade. Unfortunately we like it too!

We decided to take our food and eat inside the tent.  THE WAY MY LEGS AND ARMS ARE FLAPPING AND CLAPPING I MUST LOOK LIKE A WINDMILL OR AN AEROBICS INSTRUCTOR.

During the night I heard raindrops; we jumped up to close all the flaps. But, the rain just disappeared.

30 Jan

We left early this morning for Etosha again. It is very quiet. We did not see much.  People saw lions at Homob. We missed them. We arrived very early at Halali. We were looking forward to a swim, but they were fixing the pool. We decided to have a cold shower in that case. I lit a little fire to make us some toasted, cheese, tomatoes and onion sandwiches.  A guy came to tell us that there was a Giant Eagle Owl sitting at the waterhole.  I ran up the hill to go and find it. Never found it. I should have put on a shirt. The sun nailed me. Every time we open the car, more moths and mosquitoes come out. Hundreds have been hiding in there.

Rina just made me a nice cup of coffee. It is so quiet and peaceful here. It is very hot and very dry.

I think I must go and have another shower. Maybe I am sunburnt. Either that or the devil is sitting on my shoulders.

Early evening we walked to the Moringa waterhole again. The Impalas and the Helmeted Guinea fowl suddenly became very skittish. The Impalas were grunting and running around. The Guinea fowl were screaming and swearing like drunken deckhands.  Then, Mr. Leopard wandered in.  He had a very complacent look on his face. The look you see when very important person walks into a room.  He had no interest in any of them.  He just came for a drink of water. He looked us right in the eyes as if to say, “so you are also here”, and kept lapping up water. Later as he had his fill, he calmly walked off into the bush. All the Guinea fowl and Impala following him, as if to prove that they have chased him away, or maybe just to check that he is really gone.

Back at camp I lit a fire. Rina made pap again. I did the chicken on the fire. The pap and beer is starting to sit around our asses and stomach.

31 Jan

The first month of the year has come and gone.

We drove to Namuntoni.  They upgraded everything in 2007. They relaunched the resorts as they call it. It is all very expensive. Sadly no renovations had been done since. All the wooden decks and  reed walls  are falling apart. It makes you wonder what they do with all the money.

There is a lot of work done on the roads, but they dig up sand and rock from the veldt next to the roads. It looks terrible and makes you think that no environmental impact assessments were done.

We left Etosha through the Von Lindquist gateand drove to Grootfontein, Eight kilometres before Grootfontein we found a nice little place for the night at Bushbaby Safari Lodge and camp. We drove up to the lodge to see what is at the waterhole. We were the only people at the place. We were surprised by a Bradfield’s Hornbill. Another new specie for us. It was so exciting!

We walked around to see the pool area and bar. No time to swim. We had to go to Grootfontein for some shopping. It is late already.

We made couscous and vegetarian schnitzel with black beans for dinner. After dinner we walked all the way to reception to do some internet.

1 February

We left quite late after a nice shower. We saved some frogs from imminent death.  We went to see the Hoba Meteorite. It is much larger than I expected it to be.  It has been uncovered, but because of its large mass has never been moved from where it fell. The main mass is estimated at more than 60 tons, making it the largest known meteorite (as a single piece) and the most massive naturally occurring piece of iron known at the Earth's surface. The Hoba meteorite is thought to have fallen more recently than 80,000 years ago.From the meteorite we drove back to Grootfontein, more shopping and petrol and left for Rundu. Along the way at one of the picnic spots we had cous-cous and Quinoa, blackbean and chia snacks. It was devine. Back in Rundu Rina bought some more of her “traditional bread” which is basically beskuit that is not dried. We are staying at Kaisosi again, just for the night. Tomorrow we are crossing the border again into Botswana.

We are now sipping on some cold Tafel lagers looking out over the Kavango river for the last time.

Dinnner at the restaurant, Starters, snails in garlic sauce for R and I had chicken perri wings, main course me venison steak , pepper sauce, bratkartoffeln and veg . R had rump, chips and veg for main.

2 Feb

After a cup of coffee saying goodbye to  Rundu, we left for Botswana. We refueled at  Divundu and crossed the border at Mohembo borderpost. Customs officials just checked for meat. Quick passage. We drove through Shakawe and arrived at Drotsky’s camp. Once again, we were the only people here.  We made a small fire for toasted sandwiches for lunch. Rina had some marshmallows over the fire.  

There are so many monkeys. They try to steal everything. One even took my Newman’s Birds of South-Africa guide. I never knew they got this kind of education in Botswana. Imagine what the people read.  Only Tolstoy and Shakespeare  I suppose. There were  some zef ones too, trying to eat our firelighters and drink the dishwashing liquid.

We had a Windhoek draught at the bar.  The river is very full. I tried some fruit of some kind of a tree I do not know. It was not good,  I hope it was not poisonous.  We are making vegetarian curry for tonight. My painted toenails are causing more of a raucous than lady Gaga’s meat dress. All the workers came to have a look.

Jurassic park sized mosquitoes are biting us and our faces look like full moons, swollen and full of craters and mountains. We bought nearly a thousand bucks worth of anti mosquito in Grootfontein. Hope it works!

We want to do a boating/birding trip in the morning! Hope we see something new.

 3 Feb

We went on our boating trip this morning to look for the elusive Pell’s fishing owl. We never found it, but we did see two new bird species; a pair of Pigmy Geese and lots of Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters.

Back at camp we had some of our leftover curry and rice on bread. We are sitting under a huge Sausage tree.  I am planning on looking for some new birds in the camp.

Late afternoon I made a small fire to cook some potatoes. We just had cream of asparagus soup for dinner.  We had a very long walk in the searing sun to the main lodge. 1,4 km. Met one of the staff members at the pool. He was very  friendly. We asked a guy for a short cut, he took his break and walked us all the way back to camp. Our guide from the morning birding boat trip came to call us to show us the Wood owls on the manager’s property.  When we got back, the monkeys were there to investigate our food supplies, but we had everything hidden away. They trashed the trashcan, but there was nothing inside for them.  Two large cat-like creatures walked through our camp, but by the time I found my glasses, it was too late, could have been genets or cervals. It is lovely to listen to all the night sounds, the frogs ( Bubbling Cassinas ) I knocked my small toe against the braai. It was so very sore, blood everywhere. We searched  for  dettol, eventually found it. I took 2 Panados at 2 in  the morning, to get rid of the throbbing pain.  We had asparagus Soup for dinner

4 Feb

We went to have coffee at the lodge. Rina had hot chocolate off course.  We each had two muffins crossed with scones, very nice though. We paid and left for the long trip to Maun.  Once again the credit card gave problems. We had brunch at a picnic spot. We had our potatoes from last night and some curry left overs.  We went through some vet posts, checking our fridge for meat, spraying the car’s wheels. We had to walk thru pads for foot and mouth disease.

We arrived at Audi camp. They were charging us P70 per night additional for electric point. We also booked tomorrow’s mokoro trip, credit card problems once again. We went to town, to look for something for my toe and a new hat. Tourist shop wanted P375 for a hat, went to PEP and bought one for P 33. When we got back, we realised I forgot to put in fuel, will do it in morning, we have to be at pre Tour briefing at six

We got this herbal powder at Motswana  centre, at a herbal store. We also bought a kilo of Pistachio nuts.  Very nice,  very good quality.  I saw that they do have fridges for campers, they never told me, so we basically wasted P140. Salad for dinner.  Rina took needle and thread and fixed our rucksacks for tomorrow’s trip.

5 Feb

We met at 07:30 . We took a long two hour drive to the place from where the mokoros depart. We drove through many small villages and crossed some log bridges. We met our Mokoro guide; he whisked us of, through beds of white and blue lilies with big green leaves. The sweetest scent permeated the air and soothed our smell censes.  Jacanas, Squacco heron, Purple Heron abound. We got to the island where we went for a brisk walk to find some animals. We only some giraffe though. We opened our lunch packs, terrible white bread, only one side margarine, tiny piece of ham in middle, egg, drumstick and an apple as small as a crab apple. They told us not to worry about mosquitoes, but there were millions eating us up, we scratched and scratched until there was no sun block left on us, we burnt to cinders. The grasses and reeds scratched us. Our arms were red and swollen badly, burnt. I looked like the elephant man crossed with a Marabou stork.  My coccyx was pressing a whole right through the makorro and I was wondering whether we were going to capsize. The hippos were eyeing us and getting closer to see whether we are edible vegetables. We saw 2 people in a donkey car. We were hiking on a perfect straight path, but the guide was zigzagging, I did not even want to ask Rina how she was doing.  She wanted to cry or kill.  On the way back to camp it started to rain. We remembered that we never closed the flaps. When we got to camp everything was soaked. We went for an ice cold beer at the bar in the late afternoon. We had a nice evening dinner, nachos starters and chicken with salad. Rina had ice cream and chocolate sauce for desert, I had another beer. We met guy at bar who hiked from CPT, looking for a job on charter aircraft. He was a pilot, but he has 268 hrs, but needs 300.  We had a nice chat.

6 Feb

We left early, the pans are still inaccessible, and so we took off for Palapye. We also went through many veterinary check points.  Not long after we left Maun we stopped at a little picnic spot by the side of the road, dirty, nappies, a bottle of Nederburg 2005 Rhine Riesling. I wanted to chill it and drink it, Rina reckons it might be poisoned. We drove through dusty sandy little villages like Mopipi, Lethlakane, Mmashoro. We wanted to fill up at Orapa, it is a diamond mine town, but also nature sanctuary, but you need a permit to enter. It was a very long days driving. 25 km before Serowe we decided to rather stay over at Sir Serests Khamas Rhino sanctuary.  The credit card worked fine here. It is a very nice peaceful place. No electricity, but I’ll switch the fridge off at six or so, and on again early morning. The reserve is 4300 hectares of Kalahari sandveld and hardveld.

We pitched, it is late.  We went for a drive to the main lodge at the top of the hill to get some internet and have a few cold Millers, while overlooking the waterhole in the distance.  This is where we also saw our first Bradfield’s Hornbill! We are making chicken, pumpkin, couscous, and beetroot salad, with lentils for dinner. We heard a noise at our pots during the night. Something  licking the braai grid.

7 Feb

We saw lots of tracks of small and large antelope around our tent this morning.  The was a lot of dew on the grass and thick mist. Some aggressive hornbill was chasing all the other birds. He was ringed. He caught a large hairy caterpillar and proceded to rub the hair off against the sand before eating it.  We had scrambled eggs and vegetarian sausage for breakfast. We went for drive to Malema’s pan, named after the owner of the cattle post previously located here. He assisted in the establishment of the sanctuary! We then left the reserve for the border post at Martins drift. It went fast even though there were hundreds of trucks.  The customs officials caught someone with a lot of illegal ivory blocks and tubes. It was hidden amongst a lot of copper wire in a metal container. We stopped at Fig tree Inn again; we then made our way to Marakele. I thought we were lost, phoned them, but we were still on track. We took the road from Thabazimbi to Marakele. It was a very long day of driving and we were very tired. I put some broccoli, sandwiches and mushrooms on the fire. Rina made schnitzels with mushroom sauce and couscous. Early evening a rhino came to visit us in our camp as well as several ostriches.

8 Feb

We woke early and took a long drive up into the mountain. The road is single lane. I was wondering what we were going to do if someone comes from the other direction. We saw Red hartebeest, blue wildebeest and giraffe. There are towers on top of the mountain. They belong to the SANDF.  There is a little bench where one can sit and meditate! The view from the top is spectacular.

For lunch we had sandwiches and salad and more beer. Mushrooms with garlic and sandwich

We had Mexican beans on a jacket potato for dinner

9 Feb

Went for game drive this morning, lunch and beer. We went to town for beer, rusks and veggies, petrol, ice-cream,  game drive, to picnic sight,  Dinner we had Asian vegan burgers  There was a tremendous thunder and lightning display, no rain , it just disappeared.

10 Feb

Game drive , went to look at tented camp  Tlopi camp , situated on dam, very beautiful.  Met people from Villiers, invited us to their farm.  Drove back for lunch salad for me and sandwich for Rina.  We had a grass snake in the toilets. German couple work limpopo,  she says it is the ninth snake she has seen, since they arrived in South Africa.

We had a nice thundershower round about 14:00. Now all the birds are singing and chirping. I am making a little braai for the last time tonight.  We are having chicken kebabs.

11 Feb

We are leaving for home today. We had lunch at Fishaways in Bela Bela.

Another wonderful holiday came to an end.